At the Museum of Modern Art in New York on Monday evening, Tory Burch proposed a vision of soft power dressing for fall 2025. The key look—sharply tailored outerwear worn over plush alpaca quarter-zips and brushed wool track pants—felt like an evolution of last season’s winning sporty combo of sequined nylon swimsuit and velour track pants, which were chosen by multiple front-row guests, including Ciara and actresses Myha’la Herrold, Havana Rose Liu, and Alexandra Daddario. “When women get dressed, they want to obviously look chic and beautiful, but they also want to feel powerful,” Burch said backstage. “That’s something I spent a lot of time thinking about, because I think women are the answer.”
Burch described the collection’s vibe as “twisted” American sportswear, and she took that concept both literally (twisted yarns, twisted seams, twisted slingback and T-strap heels) and figuratively. As models descended the museum’s soaring Gund Lobby staircase to Charlotte Adigéry and Bolis Popul’s electro-pop track “HAHA” that features a digitally manipulated laugh-crying sample, it was hard to miss the symbolism. When the ground has opened underneath you and everything feels constantly overwhelming, this collection offers cozy armour, chic layers to swaddle yourself in and get on with it. Soft knitwear spiraled around the body, enveloping the wearer in a warm hug.
Crewneck sweaters were MacGyvered as little capelets over coats via stick brooch pins, a styling trick also used for slashed cardigans that were worn half on with the cutaway sleeve fastened to the opposite shoulder. Former Secretary of State Madeleine Albright’s brooch collection used to convey foreign policy messages was the reference here. “I thought it was so interesting the way that she took brooches and you knew her mood or you knew what she was thinking,” said Burch of the first woman to hold the title. (Vladimir Putin once confided to Bill Clinton that Russian diplomats routinely checked to see which brooch Albright was wearing.)
Ultimately, this was a richly textured collection that rewarded a second look. Nipped-waist jackets were encased in sheer jersey overlays, while lightweight sweaters were embroidered to look like bouclé tweed. Burch has always been interested in fusing sportswear and sport, and here she offered smart clothes built for action. “It was about trying to find the balance of creating really interesting fabrics that don’t weigh you down,” the designer said.
