Miu Miu’s spring 2025 show at Paris Fashion Week was set in an apocalyptic newspaper factory, complete with a conveyor belt carrying “The Truthless Times,” a fictional paper by the Polish artist Goshka Macuga. The faux-publication follows two characters, Pathos and Logos, who live dual lives as undercover researchers in a printing plant. Before the first model walked the runway, a short film by the artist touching on the themes of misinformation and manipulation screened.
The opening look? A simple, white cotton set that looked like it could have been pulled from the depths of a stylish antique store. Amid the steel benches and techno soundtrack with cartoonish blips and factory noises, models stomped out wearing the collection: layered polos, ’70s prints, floral skirts with buttons, patent trench coats, and tributes to both vintage pieces and the house of Miu Miu through the decades. There were 1920s-esque, wide-cut flapper dresses that were styled open in the back to expose sporty bras; and Edwardian cotton dresses and skirts all in white, covered in Art Deco sequin details. These looks were paired with dual-color windbreakers that looked straight out of the ’80s, knitted leg warmers, and brightly colored heels—combinations native only to Miuccia Prada’s world.
There was a sense of wayward mismatching, or getting dressed in a hurry (the purposely haphazard styling by Lotta Volkova lent a sense of urgency and beautiful strangeness to the collection). That sentiment matched the feeling of Macuga’s work. Backstage, I asked Mrs. Prada how the installation—one of the brand’s most immersive in recent years—related to the collection. “We’re both part of the same world,” the designer said. “They think their own way. I think my own way, but it always works because we are interested.” The show notes spoke to this sense of collaboration, saying the collection was “a point of embarkation for a sequence of multidisciplinary events examining the brand’s cultural dialogues with groundbreaking women artists and filmmakers.” The designer also described Miu Miu Women’s Tales, the short film series, as a way to “investigate the experience of vanity, to analyze how women see themselves, through their own gaze.”
What would the end of fashion month be without the Miu Miu show? The brand consistently sets the pace for the coming season, earmarking what’ll be the next coveted aesthetic or new It item. With Willem Dafoe, Hilary Swank, and Alexa Chung walking the runway, the sense of character was alive and well—the big, bug-eye sunglasses; soft, earth-tone suede matelassé bags; jackets in shades of mustard yellow and bright blue that conjure a very specific kind of Miu Miu girl. This spring, get ready to layer your wardrobe with optimism and conviction.
