Next to retinol, collagen is a buzzword that’s cooked up a lot of attention in the beauty world lately. And for a good reason—the superstar ingredient, which is actually a protein our bodies produce naturally, is responsible for keeping the skin plump, firm, and moisturized. The problem? With age, collagen production declines, which can lead to more prominent lines, sagging, and crepiness in the skin. Cue collagen banking, aka a way to “futureproof” your skin by preserving collagen levels.
What is collagen banking?
Collagen banking refers to taking advantage of various collagen-boosting treatments to “bank” collagen in the skin. Think of it as an insurance policy to ensure there’s always collagen waiting in the wings, for when you need it most. While the term is relatively new, the idea of collagen preservation has long existed. When it comes to skincare, “sun protection, retinoids, peptides, and antioxidants are all proven to help the preservation of collagen and in the case of the last three, collagen synthesis is stimulated,” says Vanessa Lee, cosmetic registered nurse and founder of The Things We Do.
Collagen preservation can also be seen in diet—Lee adds that consuming foods rich in vitamin C (citrus fruits, bell peppers, broccoli), proline (wheat, chicken, fish, cabbage), and glycine (chicken, fish, gelatin) can support collagen synthesis.
Why is collagen important?
“Collagen is a glue-like protein that is an extremely important component for our tissues and skin,” Lee says. “It not only provides support and structure for the skin, but it also contributes to elasticity, firmness, and hydration.” Skin with adequate amounts of collagen appears bouncy, supple, and moisturized—on the flip side, as collagen breaks down, the skin loses its tensile strength, which can cause the appearance of deep wrinkles, crepey texture, and sagging, says Dr. Nancy Samolitis, dermatologist and cofounder of Facile.
While aging is one way to lose collagen over time (until our mid 20s, the body is continually creating collagen in a process called collagen synthesis, says Lee), certain lifestyle and environmental factors like sun exposure and smoking can lead to declining collagen production as well.
What are the best treatments for collagen banking?
There are several treatments that help boost collagen production in the skin. For one, there’s microneedling. “Microneedling is a resurfacing treatment that uses needles to make many tiny injuries in the skin to stimulate the healing process to occur,” says Dr. Samolitis. “When that happens, the message to the skin is that it needs to be repaired, and neocollagenesis (creating new collagen) occurs.” The good news about microneedling is that it’s safe for all skin types and tones—just note that in order to continue to see the benefits of microneedling (or any resurfacing treatment, for that matter), you’ll need to be consistent with treatments.
PRP (or platelet-rich plasma) is often used as an add-on to resurfacing treatments, like microneedling, as the last layer of signaling growth factors for the skin to create even more collagen, says Lee. The process involves drawing your own blood, spinning it in a centrifuge, and applying it topically or injecting it into the skin. To take things a step further, your practitioner can turn the PRP into PRFM (platelet-rich fibrin-matrix), where it can be injected into “thinning skin under the eyes and around the mouth for a more profound result,” says Lee.
Finally, LED light therapy can help improve skin elasticity, reduce photoaging, and improve the skin-healing process—all signs that collagen production has taken place, Lee explains. One study found that 660nm Red LED light improved collagen density measured by ultrasonography in addition to smoother skin and overall improved complexion.
When should I start collagen banking?
Collagen banking can be as simple as incorporating sunscreen into your daily routine and using it religiously—a habit you should be doing rain or shine, at every age, and regardless of whether or not you plan on getting treatments. But if you’re seeking minimally invasive collagen-boosting treatments, the general rule of thumb is to do them before you see signs of collagen loss. “Once you wait too long and more damage is done, it’s much harder to reverse those changes,” says Dr. Samolitis. “If the damage is fairly minimal, the repair is easier and more successful (though still requires ongoing maintenance).”
As Lee says, it’s much easier to preserve what we already have than to rely on replacing what we’re losing. “In other words, protect the collagen we have in our younger years instead of not keeping track of healthy habits with diet and skincare, and then allowing collagen loss to accelerate and manifest prematurely.”
