Honolulu Travel Guide: Where to Eat, Drink, Shop, Play, and Avoid Winter

Ever wish you could text the most stylish people in the world to ask them for their lists of things to do in the places they know best? Here are insider travel tips for those who would never be caught dead in a tourist trap. Bon voyage!

Who

Filmmaker Alika Tengan, who explores the Native Hawaiian experience in Every Day in Kaimuki (2022) and Molokai Bound (2024); Anthony Rush, the owner and chef behind culinary destination Senia and downtown Honolulu bar Podmore; and Bryn and Daniel Jones of Jones Surfboards, which are hand-shaped and hand-painted by the couple on the North Shore. (Daniel is a professional surfer who started shaping boards with his father at age of 12.)

What

What to Bring

You can pack light for Honolulu. “Swimsuit, sunglasses, a beach tote, coverup that goes from beach to dinner, [and] SPF,” notes Bryn Jones—these are the core essentials.

“For clothing, if you get hot as easily as I do, I recommend loose shirts and shorts, and maybe buying some slippers at Longs,” adds Tengan, referencing the classic rubber flip flops you can find at every neighborhood drug store.

The city is laid-back as you might expect. Shorts and a t-shirt are good for most places. Add in some Aloha shirts, sandals, and lightweight dresses for dining out and you are good to go. Bryn notes that hydrating face oil is worth bringing for post-beach care, and I would be sure to bring ath-leisure and the right shoes should you want to hike.

Finally, sunscreen can’t be emphasized enough. “It sounds obvious, but many people don’t use it, and it is very obvious when they sit at Senia’s chef’s counter looking like lobsters,” says Rush. “Trust me, the sun is just different here, much more intense.”

What to Leave Behind

“Most places are casual,” stresses Bryn. “You can get away with leaving your heels at home.”

Moreover, “don’t waste time packing or space in your suitcase for jackets or cold-weather clothes ‘just in case,’” says Rush. “If you know cold, Honolulu doesn’t offer that.”

I might also add that makeup is not especially necessary. I pack all my day-to-day essentials every time I go home to Honolulu, and time and again, I’ll leave without reaching for any of it. At most, a tube of mascara and a lip gloss or natural lipstick and tinted sunscreen will do the job.

What to Keep in Mind

“Respect that this is home to many. Drive with Aloha, pick up your trash, respect people and wildlife, and support small businesses,” Bryn and Daniel say, adding, “Expect traffic.”

“Most people think Honolulu is a small city,” explains Daniel. “In reality, it’s a big, bustling place with a lot of people.”

The public transport isn’t great, so renting a car will be a must. “When driving around, listen to the college radio station KTUH, as not only do they have the best and most diverse music selection on the radio (yes I was a DJ there but I’m not biased!), they frequently talk about current events happening around town,” says Tengan. “It’s the best way to get tuned into what’s happening.”

On a broader level, driving will also be necessary to explore. “Step outside of Waikiki!” says Rush. “Explore downtown, Chinatown, Kaka’ako, and some of the other smaller neighborhoods. That’s where you’ll find the true hidden gems.”

Where

Where to Stay

There is no shortage of options here. The Kaimana Beach Hotel has suites with floor-to-ceiling windows and oceanfront balconies on the quiet end of Waikiki by Kapiolani Park, just out of the chaos and next to the Outrigger Canoe Club.

Bryn and Daniel also like the Halekulani, a longtime luxury staple with a lavender-accented signature suite designed by Vera Wang.

They recommend the new Ritz at Turtle Bay, which many are saying is now the best hotel on the island. It’s the perfect place to stay if you want to feel peaceful and removed. The Four Seasons at Ko Olina is also ideally just isolated enough. “It has that getaway feel to it,” says Rush.

Finally, The Royal Hawaiian, aka the art deco “pink palace,” is a beautiful and classic Honolulu experience. It was the second hotel on the island after The Moana Surfrider, and is worth a stop for the (very strong) mai tais and nightly live music.

Where to Start the Day

Hawaii is known for its homegrown coffee, and you can find flavorful options all over town. Tengan’s favorite spot is Morning Glass in Manoa. “They have the best locally sourced coffee and ingredients,” he explains. It’s worth the drive—the daily baked goods like the lilikoi (passion fruit) scone and a range of seasonally shifting frittatas are lush and decadent.

Rush’s pick is Kona Coffee Purveyors. “The Suiter family is meticulous about sourcing and production, and you can taste it in their coffee,” he says. “Also, they have partnered with B. Patisserie at their Waikiki shop—and Belinda makes beautiful pastries.”

Bryn and Daniel recommend the Kouign Amann from Kona Coffee Purveyor in particular, and Breadshop, which is heavily endorsed by Rush. Another nice option is Arcs, a small, independent coffee shop that is a perfect last stop after a run around Diamond Head crater along the ocean. (I would also recommend the Health Bar across the street for the best açai bowls topped with local fruit and honey.)

For brunch, Rush suggests the Farmhouse Cafe. “Chef ZZ does a great job: really delicious, honest food,” he says.

Koko Head Cafe in Kaimuki, with dishes that bring together the island’s diverse culinary influences, is also a breakfast standout. Think poached eggs with ‘ulu miso puree, tempura eggplant, roasted ali’i, macadamia nut gremolata, Sicilian olives, and chili crisp, plus upscale poke bowls with nori-fried ahi poke.

Where to Eat

Honolulu’s culinary scene is ideal for anyone with a love of Japanese, Filipino, Chinese, Korean, and so much more. Look for Saimin (a local standard combining Chinese noodles and Japanese dashi broth), Okinawan comfort food, poke by the pound, and plenty of high-quality, farm-to-table produce and fresh seafood.

“One of my favorite places to eat when I’m back home on the east side is Masa & Joyce,” shares Tengan. “I’ve been going since I was a kid for okazuya [ready-made Japanese food] so I’m grateful they’re still around. Also, Maruki Tei is a Windward Mall staple—and they might have the best mac salad on the island. This one isn’t east side, but Ili’Ili Cash & Carry has some of the best pizza on the island.”

Bryn and Daniel recommend Mud Hen Water (“where we had our first date”), which interprets local and Hawaiian dishes like fried ‘ulu served with chili pepper water aioli using island-sourced, farm- and sea-to-table ingredients. Sasabune is their favorite omakase spot, and Fete (Chef Robynne Maii is the first Native Hawaiian woman to win a James Beard) is another special option. Rush loves Izakaya Uosan. “I have probably dined at this restaurant more than any other in my lifetime,” he says. “We try to go at least once a month. Chef Nobu just does good sushi. What more could you want?”

Senia, Rush’s restaurant, is a beautiful fine-dining spot that utilizes local ingredients and ingredients indigenous to Hawaii. Its opening was perhaps the most hotly anticipated one on the islands in years.

For a beautiful brunch or dinner by the water, there is Hau Tree.

Then there are Rush’s other favorites, including Nanzan Giro Giro (“Each month Chef Matsumoto creates a different menu and new experience,” he explains) and Chef Ahu’s Istanbul (“It’s her family recipes”).

I also love Diamond Head Grill for a casual lunch; you can stop by for healthy takes on traditional plate lunches (try the ginger salmon) on the way out east to Makapu’u or Hanauma Bay.

Where to Shop

You’ll find flagships from all the major luxury houses on Kalakaua Avenue in Waikiki and in Ala Moana, Honolulu’s iconic open air mall—but the more interesting options will be independent and locally owned.

“Of course, there is a lot of choice for luxury shopping in Honolulu, but SALT in Kakaako has great, smaller shops,” echoes Rush, who calls out Butcher & Bird in particular.

Kakaako SALT is also home to Hungry Ear, “a great record shop,” says Tengan. Then, for clothing, “Fitted and Salvage Public are great Kanaka-driven clothing companies that feature sleek Hawaiian designs,” he suggests.

Honolulu is also fantastic for niche culinary shopping. “I got really into cooking Asian food lately and as such find myself needing esoteric Asian ingredients, so Marukai is a great market for that kind of stuff,” Tengan continues. “They have a lot of warm food like bentos and sushi as well. And they have great deals on bespoke Japanese rice, which are fun to try!”

Bryn likes the concept shop We Are Iconic, which offers warm-weather pieces from Rachel Comey, Ulla Johnson, and a range of tiny jewelry and apparel brands. Mono—a curated office and small-design object gift shop—and Island-Boy in Kaimuki are two other beloved stores. Then there is Single Double, a nostalgic vintage space in Chinatown filled with old electronics and playful knick-knacks, stocking ’80s Aloha shirts and original 501-3s. Bryn also calls out no. 808 in the surf village Haleiwa, which has vintage and current surf culture-inspired designs.

For swimsuits, there is Bikinibird in Kailua. You’ll find Hawaii-made offerings but also plenty of the best Australian and California brands. And for surfboards, we would be remiss not to mention Bryn and Daniel’s Jones Surfboards, which are custom-made and hand-tailored to each surfer over the course of 5-7 weeks, then shipped globally.

Where to See Art

Both Tengan and the Jones recommend the Honolulu Museum of Art. “[It] has a really expansive collection, plus they house the Doris Duke theater which screens a panoply of art films year around,” says Tengan.

Another place worth visiting is Shangri La, Doris Duke’s former home which has been converted into a museum. The house itself—Islamic art and design in a modernist setting—is breathtaking, as is the location. Book a private tour.

Where to Unwind

When I come home, I tend to feel calm almost instantly. To bring it up a notch, I would recommend Burn in Kahala for an intense workout under infrared lights that combines HIIT and Pilates.

Bryn also recommends Heated Haleiwa and Uproar Fitness on the North Shore.

Yoga Under the Palms offers Vinyasa-based classes in beautiful natural settings.

For wellness, the Kahala Spa is the local favorite.

Where to Swim, Snorkel, and Surf

“I have a lot of favorite surf spots but unfortunately I can’t talk about any of them otherwise I’ll be ostracized from the break,” admits Tengan. He’s not alone here. Local surfers, Jones included, will not share their spots.

For beaches, however, I recommend Makapu’u and Lanikai. Makapu’u, famous for bodysurfing, might have the most breathtaking view on the island. Lanikai, with its calm turquoise waters, is magical in the mornings and during sunset.

Many locals, Bryn and Daniel included, also love Waimanalo.

Then on the North Shore, the iconic 7 Mile Miracle is one unforgettable break after another. Try Waimea Bay first thing in the morning, suggest Daniel and Bryn. Pipeline is also worth checking in the winter months; you can pull up and watch world-class surfers on any given day.

For snorkeling, Hanauma Bay is a classic, but Sharks Cove is also a fantastic dive. (Leave your equipment at home and rent some at Bob’s Snorkel; the quality is quite high and you can rent for several days or a week-plus if you are visiting other islands.)

Where to Hike

The island provides more than ample opportunities for getting active and seeking out calm moments.

“There are hidden trails throughout the island, but [we love] Manoa Falls, Lulumahu Falls, and Kuli’ou’ou Ridge Trail,” share Bryn and Daniel.

Tengan recommends Makiki Loop. (“Favorite hike used to be Koko Head, but it’s become far too crowded,” he admits.)

Then there is Ka’au Crater. “It is a decent length with ever-changing scenery, from valleys to ridges to forests and three waterfalls,” says Rush.

Waimea Valley and the Pali Lookout are also very special.

Where to Get a Cocktail

Chinatown is the epicenter of Honolulu’s bar and cocktail scene, and there you can find EP Bar, Tchin Tchin, and Manifest, which Tengan recommends.

The neighborhood is also home to Rush’s Podmore. “My wife and I created it so that we could have a cocktail lounge that ticked all the boxes for us,” he explains. Around the corner is the atmospheric Bar Leather Apron, which Rush likes “if we can get a reservation.”

Bryn and Daniela also spotlight the bar at the Kaimana Beach Hotel, which has beautiful ocean views. Finally, “Grab beer or wine from Haleiwa Bottle Shop and go to the beach for sunset,” suggest the couple. It may be the best way to enjoy the night.

When

Honolulu is breathtaking (and frankly, has rather perfect weather) year-round. That said, the winter months, especially January and February, are less busy. “It’s a little quieter after the holidays and a little cooler by Hawaii standards,” says Rush. “But it still has much longer and warmer days at that time of the year than most other places I have lived.”

Bryn and Daniel recommend April and September, but note that winter is the time to go if you want to experience big-wave surfing on the North Shore.

Why

“Blue skies every day is a big plus,” says Rush. “Even if it rains, it never rains all day. It’s almost always a warm rain that I love to go running in and it brings out the rainbows. It’s beautiful.”

The natural environment is hard to compete with. But Honolulu also has “city life with diverse neighborhoods, unique spots to eat, shop, and stroll,” say Bryn and Daniel. “Everything you want from a city, but with a beach.”