The theme for Nadège Vanhée’s new collection at Hermès was leather dandy. It was such a strong starting point for the ever-restrained, meticulously crafted house—fresh and fully realized. And frankly, it feels more radical to see fetish as a reference here than a point woven into a louder or irony-tinged label. There was nothing obvious about Vanhée’s interpretation. The offering brought all the high points of Hermès: finely considered materials, hand painting, and exquisite stichting, all through the lens of a clearly assertive woman.
The looks were refined but filled with dominance. Silhouettes were sleek and narrow. Some favorite moments: leather quilted biker jackets, tailored close to the body with a feminine cut and matching quilted leather hotpants; gorgeous double-face felt and leather coating; a tightly polished leather blazer with a single thin belt across the waist in place of buttons; and saddle flaps laced together over knee-length leather skirts. All the classic riding references were there, but with a Tom of Finland spin. This collection was rife with sex appeal that feels like actual power rather than a performance. It was so refreshing, with so many individual garments and looks to obsess over.
The color palette was sophisticated as always—marble whites, charcoal grays, black, rosewood, and pine green—but with a dark tone. Silk and cashmere turtlenecks, perforated leather details, and reversible moments were integrated throughout. (One coat unzipped to become a blanket.) Details were surprising and made each item all the more useful. It was a deeply refreshing show that brought subversion to the house in uncompromising form. I suspect it will convert new clients; Vanhée and the house gave us something missing in much of the industry.
