Peter Copping titled his fall 2025 ready-to-wear and menswear debut for Lanvin À la maison, French for “at home.” The 57-year-old artistic director who has helmed Nina Ricci and Oscar de la Renta and most recently assisted Demna on the launch of couture at Balenciaga never seemed more at ease than on Sunday, January 26, when his first Lanvin collection bowed. In his new role, Copping leads the oldest continually operating Parisian couture maison, established by Jeanne Lanvin in 1889, and which has largely lacked a consistent head of household for the past decade. There was a quiet confidence to the way Copping transfigured the fluid draperies and cape-back dresses for which Lanvin is best known into his signature innovative knitwear.
“The first place that I went while researching the collection was to see some of her interiors,” Copping explained backstage, growing animated as he described an after-hours visit to Paris’ Musée des Arts Decoratifs to hang out in an installation of Jeanne Lanvin’s bedroom, boudoir, and bathroom designed by the Art Deco interior decorator Armand-Albert Rateau. “There was something about just being in her rooms surrounded by all of her furniture and it really gave me a good understanding of this amazing woman and how she used to live her life,” he said of the inimitably chic space kitted out with marble, patinated bronze, and silk.
A diamond bathroom tile mosaic made of beige, black, and white Hauteville marble between two oversize medicine cabinets stocked with bottles of Lanvin’s iconic Arpège fragrance—one of the best-selling perfumes of all time—seemed to have particularly captured Copping’s imagination. He recreated the geometric motif on the carpeted runway, and also placed diamonds of various sizes and colors on balloon-sleeve dresses, palazzo pants, and patchwork lace gowns. Elsewhere in the lineup, he showed ocelot-print scarves whose spots resembled a favorite Lanvin pattern that even featured on the original toilet and bidet coverings in Jeanne Lanvin’s bathroom.
Lanvin is arguably the first lifestyle brand. In its 1920s and 1930s heyday, the house sold couture, sportswear separates that could be worn for playing golf or tennis, menswear, childrenswear, perfume, and a home collection co-created with Rateau with furniture, rugs, curtains, stained glass, and wallpaper. Copping is also an interiors enthusiast—his personal Instagram is filled with snaps of colorful and eclectic spaces—and his genius here is to show that the essence of Lanvin is the art of living well. The most prominent color in the collection is the house’s signature deep-Lanvin blue of Jeanne Lanvin’s silk-draped bedroom, here slightly faded to reflect the passage of time.
This collection is the first time Copping has designed menswear, and he’s excited to continue (re)building the world of Lanvin. He’s bringing what he describes as a “couture sensibility” to ready-to-wear; relaunching couture itself, which Lanvin hasn’t made since 1991, remains a possibility. “And this doesn’t just have to stay all purely fashion, you know,” Copping says. “It could go much further.”
