Balenciaga’s fall 2025 show venue was a black, curtain-covered maze in Paris. Guests walked in from multiple entry points, and there was an open seating plan, allowing all to have a front-row view. Multiple dark, narrow corridors were constructed for models to walk; they were so close to the audience that long fur jackets and puffer coats brushed across spectators’ shoes. In those tiny hallways, we experienced what may have been the quietest 30-minute wait for a show to start, ever. But it was also somewhat poignant, given Balenciaga’s incredibly low-key, pared-back collection based on the study of standard dress codes.
A series of corporatecore suits were the first looks to hit the runway, each with their own Demna-fied twists. Intentional wrinkles, moth holes or exaggerated proportions were all there. The pieces looked like the perfect wardrobe for a post-AI apocalypse. Oversize denim jackets, puffers, beige coats, and long sweaters came next, all of which were strikingly simple. Models whizzed past in quick succession. There was a notable absence of a final walk, making the show feel like a blur of real-world, toned-down dressing that was made most interesting by the unique cast of characters wearing each piece—or by the subtle details that one wouldn’t see unless they got up close.
The collection felt like a wink to an if-you-know-you-know concept. What appeared to be a blue Snuggie on the runway was in fact, “a molleton maxi hoodie” inspired by “the sweeping volume of Balenciaga’s 1967 wedding dress,” according to show notes. But the average non-fashion obsessee (or perhaps even the most jaded fashion fan) would likely never know. Wrinkled, distressed jeans were actually treated with resin to remain that way forever. (Balenciaga has applied these kinds of treatments to clothing in seasons past, but the less extreme look seen in the fall 2025 collection made the technique even more subversive.) A fur-lined hoodie splashed with the word “luxury” recalled looks from 2010s mall brands like Abercrombie & Fitch or Hollister. (Balenciaga’s was actually hand-stitched and dry-lined in cashmere with matching hand-stitched sweatpants.) Geneva watch bracelets came faceless and rings and earrings were left unset.
“This runway, which looks like a backstage corridor, is where everything begins in terms of what you and everybody else sees,” Demna told W after the show. “Being constructed in the shape of a maze is symbolic because there are multiple ways you can take, and multiple destinations to which you can end by making this or that decision. There is a parallel to the moment in which we are right now, especially in the fashion industry. I think I’m missing fashion that feels urgent.”
Balenciaga’s Puma collaboration also debuted, featuring sweatsuits, tracksuits, bags, and more. Statuesque floor-length outerwear was a highlight, alongside asymmetric dresses and lightweight puffer jackets with fluffy trim and corset detailing. “I thought I would do a study of standard silhouettes because it’s the hardest thing to do,” Demna added. “It’s easy to put a chair on the head and then be like ‘That’s unwearable art’ or whatever. I just wanted to make my standard.”
Demna will forever be Balenciaga’s king of meme-worthy fashion. Under the designer, the brand has made fashion history with its concepts and viral moments—most of which are often deeply ironic. The fall 2025 collection, which appeared so simple at first blush, could be read as trolling the fashion world or the general public—and at this point, it’s certainly post-irony. But it’s also perfectly Demna.
