“They looked like clothes that have been handed down through generations,” said the actress Dree Hemingway after Chloé’s fall 2025 show on Thursday. “They’re pieces that I’d want to give to my daughter—heirlooms.” That’s precisely what designer Chemena Kamali, who was appointed creative director at the 73-year-old maison in 2023, was going for with her ethereal, emblematically bohemian new collection. A fusion of free-spirited fun, intensity, and painstaking craftsmanship, this season’s lineup comprised romantic gowns that conjured vintage négligées, statement black leather frock coats, and airy blouses bolstered by no-nonsense shoulder pads. It was a range imbued with dynamism that reflected the many facets of the female experience.
“We as women are not always the same,” said Kamali backstage. “We have our contradictions. We have different layers, different moods. This collection is about those contradictions.” The fall outing, she said, reflects “a women’s wardrobe that has naturally evolved. And every piece has a unique story.”
Given that Chloé, founded in 1952 by the French-Egyptian designer Gaby Aghion, has long stood for feminine freedom and expression, it was fitting that self-assured women including Doechii, Rashida Jones, and Lily James surveyed the show from the front row, capturing looks such as ruffled jackets, pussy-bow blouses, and tiered maxi-skirts on their iPhones.
The collection, with its broad, hardware-laden belts; dangling shearling accents; wide, floor-length trousers, and diaphanous lace gowns, was quintessentially Chloé, but it displayed a new, distinctive confidence from Kamali, who is clearly settling into her role.
At a time when so many designers are pushing stark, sleek minimalism, it was refreshing to see such whimsy on Chloé’s runway (even though that’s very much a brand signature). The palette—predominantly neutral with pops of pale blue, rosebud, teal, and raspberry—seemed soothing and even poetic when applied to louche garments like 1930s-style satin-and-lace dresses and translucent, layered chiffon gowns. When seen alongside more intense pieces, like aughts-era big-buckle belts or a leather trench, those serene hues evolved into something rebellious. “Dressing is a form of self-discovery,” Kamali told W after the show, “and it’s important to show these tensions. They’re very interesting.” She also stressed the importance of playfulness, texture, and spontaneity, which materialized in the form of furry embellishments, flouncy lace trim, and antique-looking layered necklaces.
While this collection was inherently uplifting, today’s world is…not. “In a time like this, the most important thing is to stay true to yourself and your own values,” Kamali said. “You can’t change the world, but you can be yourself. And that’s something that flows into my process at Chloe. Our woman is not a stereotype. She’s multifaceted, and I feel it’s important to always make sure that she can be herself.” With this sprawling offering, the Chloé woman will have plenty of opportunities to do just that.
