Armani Privé celebrated its 20th anniversary in Paris last night. And while the Italian parent brand, helmed by 90-year-old founder Giorgio Armani, is a behemoth with divisions, fragrances, and licensing deals to spare, its haute couture arm lived up to its name. Privé is French for “private,” and you’d be hard-pressed to find a more intimate runway outing—particularly in this age, when fashion shows are built for social media, not necessarily clients. Held in the exquisite Palazzo Armani, the show made time stand still, transporting guests to a realm that is calmer, chicer, and more luxurious than our own.
That’s not to say the evening wasn’t a spectacle—it was just an elegant one. The front row was lined with celebrities, including Demi Moore and Marisa Berenson, as well as loyal clients bedecked in diamonds the size of dandelions. And these guests were visibly stirred by the glittering gowns and louche separates Mr. Armani proposed on his Privé runway.
Aptly titled Lumières, or “Lights,” the collection comprised a whopping 94 shimmering looks, many of which were painstakingly embellished with colorful, reflective crystals. There were scores of 1920s-tinged, red-carpet-ready gowns begging to be worn to the upcoming Oscars, as well as decadently breezy separates that evoked the old-world opulence of designers such as Paul Poiret. A roomy trouser-and-kimono-coat combo, printed with fuchsia blooms and paired with a sheer, crystal-spangled top, was especially sumptuous, striking that sublime balance between comfort and style. Crystal turban-cloche-hybrids channeled the freewheeling glamour of the 1920s.
There was suiting, too—this is still Armani, after all—but it was the fluid sort of design at which Armani excels, rendered in ethereal hues like lavender, sand, and sky blue; printed or embroidered with flowers or feathers; and often, more tailored jackets topped billowing, sometimes sheer trousers.
But it was the gowns—haute couture’s crown jewels—that rightfully stole the show. More demure options included a fully beaded black number that sparkled like a clear night sky, and a mesh, long-sleeve nude option embellished with a grid of sequins. On the other end of the spectrum were sheer-bottom gowns with sculpted, strapless bodices and an entirely sheer, crystal-covered cutout number with a back detail that looked like haute joaillerie. (That style conjured Josephine Baker in her prime.) As the show closed, a dapper, black-clad Mr. Armani walked out hand-in-hand with a model in dazzling, embellished separates and a long, crystal headpiece. In case there was any doubt, at 90, he’s still got it.
