The hottest topic of conversation in Paris this week: where will all of these designers go next? Undoubtedly the one on most everyone’s minds (and lips) has been Jonathan Anderson of Loewe. Will he or won’t he head to Dior after transforming Loewe into one of the most vied-for brands of the moment? The label hasn’t given an outright answer just yet. But for fall 2025, Loewe chose to forgo its typical high-stakes, blowout runway show for an art-filled presentation without models or the creative director present. Adding fuel to the rumor mill, Anderson posted what appeared to be a retrospective of his work for the Spanish brand on Instagram.
Still, Monday afternoon’s presentation drew the kind of paparazzi and fans that a runway show would, as Loewe took over multiple floors and 17 rooms inside the Hôtel de Maisons. There may not have been models, but there were custom artworks by Loewe collaborators past and present, including Anthea Hamilton, Liz Magor, Zizipho Poswa, and Hilary Lloyd. Giant pumpkin sculptures flanked the venue’s lobby, and photographs and large installation-style paintings covered the floor. Editors, VIPs, stylists, and industry insiders wove throughout the various spaces to experience the very rare opportunity of getting up close and personal with pieces from the new collection. One table showcased knitted techniques and encouraged guests to feel the texture. Outside, a Loewe coffee truck offered up drinks.
Conceived as a scrapbook of ideas, the underlying theme of the collection was a tribute to midcentury artists, such as Josef Albers, a pioneer of abstract modernist painting. Anderson referenced colorblocking from Albers’s Homage to the Square series, reinterpreting them by way of Puzzle bags, Flamenco clutches, and Amazona totes. “A scrapbook contains things old and new that are gathered at random to be preserved as memories or to serve as inspiration; mementoes fill the pages,” the show notes said. “Devising the collection as a scrapbook, Anderson plays on Loewe codes and tropes such as trompe l’oeil, distorted scales, and volumes—all filtered through art and artisanal craft, which led to a collaboration with the Josef & Anni Albers Foundation.”
All the typical Anderson-era Loewe signatures were present in this collection. Leather jackets with wide lapels ballooned at the bottom; a trio of sculptural dresses was made of stringy textiles; draped skirts and jackets were trimmed in chunky leopard print fur. Space Age, retro-futuristic gowns came in spellbinding, pleated shapes. Prince of Wales prints were magnified on minidresses with hoop skirts. Every accessory projected a clever wink and nod, whether it came in the form of a shoe with an extra knotted lace or a bag with a supersize padlock. The sheer artistry alone in the bags presented—crochet, beading, paneled leatherwork and all—was moving.
The presentation gave viewers an inside look at some of the brand’s most iconic pieces. Paper patterns were laid out for Puzzle bags and videos showcased artisans crafting complex knits. One table served as a display of various tools used in the production process. It was all proof of the unrivaled passion Anderson brought to the brand. If fall 2025 was a fashion swan song, consider Anderson leaving on a high note.
