Lace tights, extreme hourglass silhouettes, and neck ruffs—Alexander McQueen’s fall 2025 show dipped into dandyism and all the rebellious maximalism that comes along with it. Creative director Seán McGirr expanded on his newly developed vocabulary for the brand by further emphasizing his own vision of the British-Victoriana-rocker aesthetic. Think: sheer black lace maxi dresses with intricate hip detailing, built-in corsets with visible hook-and-eye closures, and an ever-present Elizabethan mood.
To set the scene, McGirr quoted Oscar Wilde in the show notes with the 1891 quote, “‘Know thyself’ was written over the portal of the antique world. Over the portal of the new world, ‘Be thyself’ shall be written.” Models descended from a mirrored hall into an ancient, palatial space where the show was held. The first 12 looks of the collection came primarily in black, oscillating between Victorian Gothic, medieval revival, and a little bit of the 2010s Tumblr aesthetic, courtesy of the classic McQueen skull, which was printed onto shirts and paired with skinny black pants.
McGirr used the term “neo-dandy” to describe his work. “To me, dandyism is the ultimate act of adornment; deeply personal, playful, and transgressive. It raises questions of character and identity, idealism and gender. I wanted to explore the enduring relevance of the dandy’s radical spirit in our modern world.” The opulent dandies—men who dressed exceptionally decadent and lived fashionable lives—date back to the 18th and 19th centuries. It truly is the season of everything Victorian-inspired, and McQueen’s collection proved that the fashion world can’t get enough of 1800s-inspired fashion. The upcoming Met Gala exhibition Superfine: Tailoring Black Style opening in May 2025 is also a nod to the Black dandy throughout history. (The bejeweled mini frock and matching face mask is sure to be a contender for the red carpet event come May.)
Other highlights included raspberry chiffon gowns and a furry jacket with hulking shoulders, sheer wonders in the palest lilac, and leather jackets and sweaters with crystal embroidery. There were steampunk details like tiny glasses and rainbow beaded face masks, while witchy boots tied the look together. Evening coats with gold bullion embroidery looked like they belonged in a museum. Saturated hues and textured prints continued from dress to tights to mask and boots, creating a spellbinding effect. Ruffled bohemian tops cascaded out of structured military blazers. Capes trailed on the floor—as did skull-covered scarves.
McGirr is still relatively new to McQueen, so he’s still building his own lexicon for the house. The fall 2025 collection contained some current trend mash-ups, but it also felt true to some of the dynamic and incredibly complex history of McQueen. Most importantly, this collection wasn’t shy. In the real world, it might be the kind of dressing up you can see—and feel—from across the street.
