Glenn Martens is heading to Maison Margiela. According to a report from WWD, Martens has been named the new creative director of the storied house, making him only the third publicly identified designer to take its helm.
Martens will replace John Galliano, who had held the position since 2014 and stepped down in December. The move makes sense. Martens already works for Margiela’s parent company, OTB, as the creative director of Diesel. Although no date has been set for the Belgian designer’s first collection, the label told WWD that Martens plans to usher in “the next chapter of the house, building on its unique codes and brand values.” OTB, which owns both Maison Margiela and Diesel, stated Martens will remain in his role at Diesel in addition to his new post.
“I have worked with Glenn for years, I have witnessed his talent, and I know what he is capable of,” OTB group chairman Renzo Rosso said, according to WWD. “After Martin, who gave life to the maison and its unique Artisanal line, and John [Galliano], who made it the most cutting-edge couture house in the world, I am proud to have a third couturier at its helm.”
Martens, who graduated from Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts—just like Martin Margiela, the house founder—is known for his avant-garde approach to design and his knack for reinventing common materials, especially denim. He previously served as the creative director at Y/Project for 11 years but stepped down from the position in September 2024. (Y/Project has since shuttered.) He also served as the guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier couture in 2022, which was a particularly banner year for the designer: in the span of four weeks, he created collections for JPG, Diesel, and Y/Project. “Three shows in one month was a rollercoaster,” Martens told W at the time. “In those moments, you decide not to reflect on it because the moment you think too much, you just shit your pants.”
Speaking on his new spot at Maison Margiela, Martens said he was “extremely honored to join the amazing [brand], a truly unique house that has been inspiring the world for decades.” That’s no overstatement—under Galliano in 2024, Maison Margiela’s Artisanal collection was the most talked-about runway show of the spring 2024 couture season and was subsequently worn by stars including Zendaya, Kendall Jenner, Kim Kardashian, Hunter Schafer, and many more.
